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Every aspect of a trip to St. Barts is an aphrodisiac. Before we even get to the exclusive, French-flavored island, her hand is clutching my thigh - granted it's probably in response to the steep, hair-raising approach to the island when the small plane's wheels skim over a mountaintop road - but I'll take it. Once we slip into our little rental car, the windshield reveals a nonstop show of sexy images: fantasy villas perched high on lush green hills; secluded beaches where bathing suits are often considered superfluous; couples mooning over each other at outdoor cafàs; slender young women with short, trendy dresses and long, tan legs climbing aboard little red scooters; and at every turn a different view of seductive sapphire ocean.

Baie St. Jean is a brilliant blue bay bordered by a silky sweep of sand split into two beaches by a pinnacle of rock that juts out into the water. That tall promontory, Eden Rock, is the ultimate fortress for our romantic getaway. Eden Rock was St. Barts' first hotel, and it is enjoying a rebirth as an eclectic collection of luxury accommodations that includes a colonial-style suite with a huge picture window like the stern of a tall ship, a reproduction of a captain's cabin down to the polished teak bunk bed, a mini-compound of cottages fit for a family with the kid's room using a remodeled hurricane shelter as a bathroom, and 12 more rooms, each distinctive in its own way.

We walk down a deck that wraps around one side of the rock, past a classic wooden dory on davits and past the hotel's saltwater spa. Our room, Frigate, is at the top of a stone staircase marked by an antique brass ship's light. Inside, the first thing I notice is the hefty rock with ''Do Not Disturb'' painted on it. I'm not sure if it's to be placed outside or used to bean anyone who would dare interrupt us - it's eminently suitable for either. While I'm checking out the rock, the oohs, aahs and mmms are evidence that the rest of the room is exceeding her high expectations. The Frigate Suite where we'll play castaway couple is a luxurious loft decked out in a marine theme - it has a nautical-blue color scheme, and several windows are working brass portholes salvaged from old ships. The suite has the standard amenities: a TV that we'll forget to turn on, a cordless phone that we'll remember to unplug, a champagne fridge - or at least that's what we'll use it for - a CD player and more. A plush couch is backed by an inspiring view over a shallow reef to sailboats bobbing in calm, clear water and beyond them, the beach and the surrounding hills. A door leads to our private triangular balcony that looks like the pointy bow of a ship that has purposely beached itself against this rocky piece of paradise but still wants a spectacular view of the sea. An Eden Rocker appears and sets the outside table with a spread of nuts, exotic dried fruits, cheeses, breads and chilled champagne, and then disappears before I even think of brandishing the ''Do Not Disturb'' stone.

Upstairs is the cozy bedroom. It would be spacious but for a bed the size of a regulation playing field - with de rigueur four-poster panache and possibilities, of course, and complete with billowy mosquito netting.

The Eden Rock features two superb restaurants - gourmet and tapas - as well as its beachfront Sand Bar, and we're only able to tear ourselves away from our suite ship for one ultra-romantic night on the town.

At the bar in the Carl Gustaf, we sip cocktails and watch Gustavia Harbor turn from blue to orange and purple as it mirrors the sunset. When we move to our table, lights all over the perfect little city twinkle on. The warm breeze carries the smell of flowers; the sommelier's choice of wine is excellent. It would be overkill to order oysters.

Our trust in the chef's recommendations is rewarded with a perfect pàtà followed by king prawns in a heart-stopping lemon confit sauce and finished off with ice cream and shaved almonds atop a velvety volcano of soufflà that erupts with rich chocolate lava at the touch of a spoon.

After dinner we window-shop a few boutiques and walk hand in hand along Gustavia's waterfront just long enough to let the meal settle. Then we make a mad rush back to our own Frigate blissfully wrecked on Eden Rock and climb aboard its great big lifeboat of a bed.

A variety of accommodations are available at the 16-room Eden Rock Hotel (www.edenrockhotel.com) on St. Barts. Harbour House has a private courtyard, a mosaic plunge pool and a balcony with a view of the Baie St. Jean. All suites have balconies, antiques and original paintings. Cabins, beach cottages and deluxe bedrooms are also available. Guests can dine on gourmet French fare or tapas, and water sports and a spa are on-site. Nightly rates, which include breakfast, are $275 to $1,200 in low season ($340 to $1,550 high).

This article appeared in Carribean Travel & Life Magazine, A World Publications magazine. You can subscribe online.